All this space travel talk has me in a futuristic mood. While Balenciaga's metallic leggings may be a bit difficult for hopping in and out of cabs, Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista has some perfect summer dresses. Let it be said though, I am not one who believes that fashion must be limited to 'wearability.' I would gladly don Balenciaga's metallic trouser ensemble for a cocktail party...comfort is secondary to imagination!
Yes, the dress over trouser trend is wearing out its welcome, but an accidental link to Refinery 29's archives led me to a fresh, contemporary take on this trend by the Milanese label, 6267, designed by Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano, who gave it a jazzy flapper makeover. Intrigued by the exquisite looseness, sharp cuts and iridescent satin fabric, I headed to style.com for more.
PARIS, October 3, 2006 – "I
was thinking of robotic articulation. Car parts. Droids. A boyish
silhouette…" said Nicolas Ghesquière before he was dragged off to sort
out a last-minute glitch. Moments later, his incredible futuristic
vision was out of the gate: elongated black jackets with a
double-layered shoulder line; cyber-goddess dresses jigsawed from
patent leather; space-crew shirts with high white collars. Within
seconds, the message in these refined, precision-judged looks was
sending chills through an audience that five minutes earlier had been
on the point of meltdown from heat. Was it worth the wait? Without a
doubt. Like last season's Balenciaga retrospective triumph, this is a
collection that will reset the fashion agenda, but in a different way.
Ghesquière said he'd been watching The Terminator, and 1982's Tron,
the first blockbuster to combine computer animation with real actors,
but that's by-the-by. What's special about these clothes is the way the
designer brings his distinctively Parisian, perfectionist genius for
cut and exceptional fabric into the consciousness of high-tech culture.
It's not one monolithic look, easily captured in a comic-strip
subtitle. Ghesquière's intense shows work through a half-dozen separate
ideas linked in sequence. This time he moved from tailoring to shiny
"nylon" silk-swathed dresses, to patent-edged shirtdresses,
heavily-hewn sculpted leather and crocodile, metallic pantsuits, and
finally to the coup de grâce: astonishing combinations of drapey
silk-print tunics and gleaming bronze or gold metal robot-leggings,
embroidered with futuristic paillettes.
If last season's vastly influential Balenciaga collection looked back,
this one projects forward into a new era for the house Ghesquière is
fast defining as his own. There is no sense of a lurch, because these
ideas of space-age fantasy have always been on a slow burn in his
work—along with the attenuated line and his deftness with technique.
With this collection, he leapt ahead. It's true that thoughts of
space-age robo-women have been circulating already this season, as well
as reminders that the likes of Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier
went there in the eighties, but it takes a major talent like Nicolas
Ghesquière to turn a literal reference into something that is light
years from pastiche.